It can be easy to become too rigid about what is a “salad” leaf and what is a cooking leaf, but with the exception of silverbeet (which is a bit weird raw) almost all other greens actually double up quite well. This week’s organic tatsoi and Mizuna straddle both camps very easily, equally at home in a stir-fry or a salad, but kale, with a bit more work, is a delicious salad green if you give it a solid massage with a tasty dressing. (I find the easiest option is just to put it in a stand mixer but you can obviously do this by hand too). I find myself as often as not grilling cos lettuce these days (the combo characters of char and bitter crunch are still welcoming to a range of common salad dressings), and it’s also great in a stirfry or a soup. An important thing to remember is that the more you cook leafy greens, the less of their flavour they’ll retain – flat-leaf parsley is strong and vegetal when raw in a tabbouleh, and takes on a milder flavour when added to a soup or risotto just before serving, but almost completely loses its punch if added at the beginning of cooking.